Day 60 - Middleton to Dufton - 21.5 miles

The walk from Middleton is a gradual and constant ascent as it follows the river Tees to its source. On either side of the river there are lush upland hay meadows, with buttercups, daisies, clover and grasses with their different coloured seeds. Beautiful!

There'd been heavy rainfall overnight and within a mile of leaving Middleton, I'd had to remove my boots and socks to wade across some tributary streams that had swollen overnight. If there were stepping stones they were well under water. The only thing I had to watch out for was stepping on thistles in my bare feet. 

The walk is a delight

At Low Force waterfall, the effect of the overnight rain was impressive.

but higher up at High Force waterfall, the power of the water was awesome.

I caught up with Judy and Gareth from Lancaster.

Gareth's family originally hails from Caernarfon - the Thomases.

Judy and Gareth had booked self-catering accommodation near Dufton so were under no time pressure. What they were keen to do was lighten their packs and crack open the three tins of lager they'd brought with them for this evening's cocktail slot!  

Higher up the river where Langdon Beck and the Tees meet, is a popular fishing spot.  

Carlo (originally from Elba but now from Surrey) and Colin were enjoying a week's fishing for brown trout before being joined by their families for a week in Northumberland. The spot is idyllic.

Colin explained that the brown trout aren't migratory as they wouldn't be able to leap over High Force so as the rivers aren't restocked these fish have been here since time immemorial. 

The trail then follows the river under Cronkley Scar. Charlie had warned me that a boulder fall across the path would make the going slow. It was!

Around a sharp bend in the river, the first stunning moment of the day, it's a suprise to come upon Cauldron Snout.

A staircase of loud waterfalls. 

The path was a clamber up the steep rocks on the right leading up to a footbridge just below Cow Green Reservoir. It'd be difficult enough but with a backpack you have to be careful of your footing on the wet rocks.

The route then became a remote and boggy trudge across Dufton Moor 

until the second stunning moment of the day. 

High Cup Nick.

I'd not seen anyone for the last few hours until I saw two figures approaching on the horizon along the edge of the crag.

Gil Delindro and his sound engineer Ben Crowe

Gil is a sound sculptor who currently has four installations in his home country of Portugal and is artist in residence at VARC Highgreen in Northumberland. They were researching and collecting information for his next installation. So what do you say to a sound sculptor?....well we talked about resonance in nature, anechoic chambers, the perfect nano black and the significance of hearing one's own heartbeat. Heavy stuff after 19 miles!!

A long descent led around Peeping Hill and straight down to Dufton.

where I timed my arrival perfectly, Nigel and Duncan were at the bar! 

Time for some farewells...they're hoping to complete the Pennine Way within the week before Duncan heads back to work as International Director of a plastics company and Nigel plans his next move after retiring from CEO of the the Great Yorkshire Show. Cheers Gents! - it's been good fun.

My taxi turned up as planned and took to me to my hotel in Penrith through lanes lined with travellers on their way to Appleby fair.

A great day!

Total distance walked so far = 785.9 miles

Total ascent so far 94 642 feet

If you'd like to leave a comment, correct me on any detail or just nudge, it'd be great to hear from you. If initially it comes up as Anonymous, please just add your name at the bottom so I can see who it's from.

email: david.LL.thomas@gmail.com

mob: 07850109100

If you'd like to contribute to any or all of the great charities I'm supporting, here are the relevant links.

- Just Wheels UK  - this is a small charity set up to provide wheelchairs in a rural community in Tanzania. It does this through funding training, education and the local fabrication and servicing of bespoke wheelchairs. My nephew uses a wheelchair and as he grows I can see the life changing freedoms that proper wheelchairs can bring to both users and their families.- 

 https://donate.thebiggive.org.uk/campaign/a056900002H35TDAAZ

- Parkinsons UK   - My dad had Parkinsons in his latter years and the research work this charity funds and the support it provides to patients and their families is invaluable. - https://www.justgiving.com/fundraising/david-thomas215

- RNLI   - these are the brave guys who selflessly head out to sea to help others. I volunteer at Littlehampton RNLI shop and often meet families of those who’ve had first hand experience of their loved ones being saved from the sea. Having sailed for years I can say thankfully we’ve never had to call on the RNLI's services but it’s amazing what it does to know they are there 

https://www.justgiving.com/fundraising/david-thomas216