Day 41 - Beddgelert to Llanberis - 12.3 miles.

My options for going up Snowdon became confused when I checked-in last night and the proprietor suggested that my best option would not be to go via Rhyd Ddu as I was intending but to go up the Watkin path instead. 
Again, all would depend on the weather. 
My decision wasn't helped by whatever WiFi there was, had been switched off overnight and without any O2 coverage I decided to stick to my hunch so that if at Rhyd Ddu the weather was too bad, I could continue on to have a day in Caernarfon.

After a breakfast fit for a king.....

I had the earliest start so far and stood outside the Tanyronen Hotel in the rain, trying to latch on to their WiFi.

The up-to-date forecast wasn't good.
I started walking to Rhyd Ddu at 7.30 

Initially, the path crosses the narrow gauge railway 3 times as it loops uphill.

In addition to thrush and blackbird I could here cuckoo almost continually.

This section of the slate path is well surfaced and signposted and it makes for good progress.

The views of Snowdon from the path are stunning

 but cloud was shrouding the summit.

As I walked around Llyn Gader , I had my first bit of good fortune - by chance I walked into a group of walkers.....

Adam, Rhys and Peter are National Park wardens.

We got talking and I mentioned my charities. Adam used to be Cox of the Pwllheli lifeboat and is now a member of the Porthdinllaen crew. 

They gave me an update on the forecast - 40mph wind, poor visibility for the last few hundred feet to the summit.

 ithout saying they wouldn't recommend it - the choice would be mine - Adam suggested an alternative route through Bwlch Maesgwm which would take me to Llanberis below the cloud line.

To celebrate my good fortune, I dropped in to the Ty Mawr coffee shop at Rhyd Ddu.  

where Emma and Menno specialise in Dutch coffee and pancakes. 

They moved from Deventer, Holland and have owned Ty Mawr for the last 15 years - they've received all sorts of awards for good food in that time.

Menno said it was great for Rhyd Ddu to  also have The Cwellyn Arms next door with an excellent chef. Hopefully, the train will have a longer stop at Rhyd Ddu in the future for passengers to enjoy a culinary stop! 

I went for the Poffertjes....my second good fortune of the day.... .

Delicious!!  Well worth the detour.

There's a lovely homely atmosphere - it'd be a great place to spend the evening - and I got talking to 

Dudley and Jude from Lincoln who are walking the Snowdonia slate path North to South. They'd waited in a nearby bus stop so they could sample the Dutch delights.

I helped them a little with correct pronunciation of place names and also how to say Diolch yn Fawr - thankyou very much! They were off to a flying start.

Having enjoyed a second coffee, I set off

with my flock for Bwlch Maesgwm

The track initially goes through the disused Glan yr Afon quarry before rising to have amazing views of Llyn Cwellyn - for ages,  Mum and Dad's favourite place for a picnic.

Everybody says that the word awesome is overused.

Over the last few days on the slate path there's been a number of times when I have stood still stunned by the majesty of the place. 

These are incomparable landscapes....

- the works of man and nature in stunning counterpoint.

Both Adam and Menno had warned that this route could be bit boggy underfoot - so my dancing between tussocks technique got some more polishing. Adam had warned that that it might be difficult to make out the actual route and that the National Park had installed some 9 ft high marker posts but even they prooved difficult to spot.

At a junction of paths I could make out some other walkers.

- Neil and Monique are from Bury St. Edmunds

are staying locally and had walked up the 500 feet from Cwellyn. Neil has been keeping a blog of all their international travel. Coming from Lincolnshire, they were thirsty for more altitude so set off towards Snowdon.

While we'd been talking, a trio of French ladies arrived out of the clouds (sounds almost Biblical!!) 

Chantelle, Helene and Marianne from Les Sables d'Olonne of Vendee Globe fame. Unfortunately, Helene told me that they didn't sail and I'd already jumped to imagining they might invite me onto their yacht. Pah!!

Marianne's Welsh partner is the chef at  The Cwellyn Arms in Rhyd Ddu and no doubt the reason why the pub has such a high reputation. What with Ty Mawr next door, I can see Rhyd Ddu becoming a destination for foodies!! Watch this space! 

It was then - almost magically that we spotted Herve (or Pere Noelle as his family called him) descending at some speed as if on skis from the clouds.

I told him I was impressed that no less than three women had been waiting for his arrival......who could ask for more!?

Then, with one last look at Snowdon in the clouds behind me,

 I walked over  Bwlch Maesgwm at just over 1500 feet with a clear route ahead.

Even with the wind behind me, it was cold 

until I got a lot lower, where of course....

the sun came out - the first of the day.

Descending into Llanberis, the track joined the main Snowdon - Llanberis trail,  where I caught up with

Mair and Lois who were participating in a charity event with over 200 others to climb Snowdon, raising funds for the  Alzheimers Society..

..an annual event organised by Hannah and Andrew, Alzheimer's National and Regional fundraisers.

Arriving mid afternoon, I couldn't resist popping along for old times' sake to Pete's Eats for a pint of tea. They do offer an option of a smaller volume but what kind of man would choose that??

It had been a favourite Sunday morning haunt when I worked in Caernarfon. The staff may have changed but I don't reckon the decor has!

I just had to wash the tea down with some beer as well.

I'd arranged to see Gwyn for a beer. We met at The Gwynedd pub - Friday night must be party night in Llanberis it was packed and noisy.

Since we'd last met when Gwyn was the County Architect, he retrained in construction law and was called to the bar, Glyn has always been a walker and climber. He's in the throes of arranging a walking reunion of university friends and planning a big walk across the Alps next year.  

It was great to catch up.

Total distance walked so far = 518.3 miles

Total ascent so far 64 793 feet

It seems there may be a few gltches with placing comments, so please persist or don't hesitate to send me a text or email - it'd be great to hear...if only correct and names or details.

email: david.LL.thomas@gmail.com

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If you're tempted to contribute to any or all of the great charities I'm supporting, here are the relevant links.

Parkinsons UK   - My dad had Parkinsons in his latter years and the research work this charity funds and the support it provides to patients and their families is invaluable. - https://www.justgiving.com/fundraising/david-thomas215

Just Wheels UK  - this is a small charity set up to provide wheelchairs in a rural community in Tanzania. It does this through funding training, education and the local fabrication and servicing of bespoke wheelchairs. My nephew uses a wheelchair and as he grows I can see the life changing freedoms that proper wheelchairs can bring to both users and their families.- 

 https://donate.thebiggive.org.uk/campaign/a056900002H35TDAAZ

- RNLI   - these are the brave guys who selflessly head out to sea to help others. I volunteer at Littlehampton RNLI shop and often meet families of those who’ve had first hand experience of their loved ones being saved from the sea. Having sailed for years I can say thankfully we’ve never had to call on the RNLI's services but it’s amazing what it does to know they are there 

https://www.justgiving.com/fundraising/david-thomas216