Day 29 - Monmouth to Pandy - 17.5 miles
I'd decided last night to join John for an early breakfast before he departed on his next lonely stretch to Shrewbury then Runcorn and northwards.
For my walk today, I'd arranged to meet Alan, who came across from Abergavenny and knows this territory like the back of his hand.
I'd last met Alan at Neil's wedding almost 40 years ago and while walking a few weeks ago in Cornwall, Neil had suggested that as my route took me through Abergavenny, Alan and I could meet up again.
The conversation with Alan took off as easily as if we'd been in contact only yesterday.
The Monmouth to Abergavenny stretch is green and rolling and in the morning sunlight with the blue of The Forest of Dean behind us, the fields were beautiful.
Having initially studied Geography at Aberystwyth, Alan then went on to research the use of Common Land in Wales and then on to the social impacts of changing land use and farming practices in other countries including Swaziland.
On the way, we caught up with our friends from Cockermouth.
and by mid morning, we'd arrived at the lovely church of Llanfihangel Ystum Llewern,
just after one of their fortnightly services but were welcomed in nonetheless for coffee and delicious cake - the perfect elevenses!
Matthew explained that there has been a place of worship here since the 6th century. The story goes that Ynyr, King of Gwent was returning victorious from a battle when night fell. He saw a light believing it was from a dwelling but in trying to reach it became stuck in the bog surrounding the River Trothy. By dawn, he realised that he may have been disorientated by the light from marsh gas and pronounced that he would build a church here in thankfulness for his safe survival and dedicated it to St Matthew and Ystum Llewern - the Welsh translation of which is Wil-o-the-Wisp.
Nigel explained that the facilities at the church had been supplemented recently with a kitchen and a toilet and with its location on the Offa's Dyke path, they were considering offering hostel accommodation within the church building - a "chostel" ! Brilliant! It'll be a high point on the journey. Just imagine!
Continuing our walk, Alan described how after the Norman conquest there had a period when there were three factions in this area. The land and the hunting was good so there had been many disputes between the Welsh, the English and the ruling Norman's. At any one time different factions would form a pact to battle with the third. These allegiances were fluid.
Our forefathers lived in exciting times!
The route goes through part of Bulmer's 400 acre plantation of cider apple trees -
some now just starting to come into flower.
Recently retired, Alan and Liz are actively involved in conservation projects and he manages a large team of volunteers
monitoring the health of crucial peat resources in the Brecon Beacons.
On the skyline in almost every direction
Alan was able to point out geographical and geological features that explained the topography.
With my head spinning, I was starting to get totally confused by the different mountains that surround us so we needed some visual prompts...
Pen-y-fal (Sugarloaf)....
Pen y Gadair in the distance
and.....Who put that bloody cattle feeder there - just where we wanted to stand?
All now indelibly etched in my brain thanks also to the fact that Alan plays saxophone in a local band The Clockwork Blorenge. Priceless!
Apparently, White Castle was Edward I's first fortress castle in Wales in an attempt to cement his suppression of Wales. You can see it from a distance, large and imposing - apparently the "Inner ward" would have been the size of a football pitch.
Here's Alan, giving it some scale...
Outside the castle we met
engineer Neil, economist Romesh, journalist Gareth and playwright Alan
- a group of university friends meeting up for their annual reunion having first met at St John's College, Oxford in 1980. They were discussing the phenomenon that over the last 42 years, hills seem to have been getting longer and steeper but at the end of each day, the beer has been tasting better. There must be a research paper in there somewhere!
Neil's research area had taken him into designing biodegradble heart stents, Romesh is now an independent economist, Gareth has worked for BBC Wales current affairs and Alan has been busy putting on plays in Coventry and Cirencester.
Alan and Liz are involved in various projects monitoring indigenous species including the Horseshoe bat and with their volunteer group arrange and locate possible nesting sites to encourage the numbers.
They're also involved in projects to reintroduce the pine marten hopefully linking up recent reintroduced releases in mid Wales and the Forest of Dean.
The day didn't pass without discussing
- the courage of Ukraine
- the Tories' good fortune in having a distraction from
- party gate
- Kier Starmer
- Tony Blair
- sustainable energy
- Sitka spruce
- stone walls
- the Enclosure Acts
Our conversation was as easy as a slinky spring.....! We could have carried on going.
At the beautiful church of Llangattock Lingoed,
with it's carved rood screen,
the pub garden next door at The Hunters Moon was beckoning and we met a lovely group from Holland who are walking the Offa's Dyke path from South to North.
We reassured them that this wonderful weather is typical for Wales and Offa's Dyke in particular so they'd comfortably achieve their ambition to swim at both ends of the walk! I'm not sure they were totally convinced but on that happy possibility Jan went to get another round in!
We were similarly tempted. Eventually we moved on to walk the last few miles.
Perhaps it was late in the day, perhaps it was the Butty Bach but we'd now moved on to Marine Conservation Zones, I was having difficulty understanding the difference between the powers and responsibilities of the Welsh Government and Y Senedd.
Eventually, we dropped down to Llanfihangel Crucorney where Liz had arranged to pick us up at The Skirrid.
Time for another quick refresher!
Initially a botanist and teacher, Liz had moved to curating the Techiquest science museum in Cardiff and then set up a company to encourage the education of STEM subjects by connecting schools with science and engineering practitioners as ' ambassadors'
Liz and Alan invited me to join them for supper but my toes deserved a long, long soak in a hot bath so we agreed to meet for breakfast tomorrow instead so they could meet Pam and Jonathan with whom I knew there'd be a meeting of minds.
My long soak was followed by a very disappointing meal this evening. I can cook and present better myself! Abergavenny deserves better!
Though the Italian might have been helped with a glass of red, after a few excellent pints of Butty Bach earlier, there's nothing for me this evening other than
water, water and more water!
A brilliant day but sleep beckons!
Long day tomorrow - the guide book describes it as " one of the most demanding days of the entire Offa's Dyke walk!"
Total distance so far = 361.7 miles
Total ascent so far = 47 135 feet
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If you're tempted to contribute to any or all of the great charities I'm supporting, here are the relevant links.
Just Wheels UK - this is a small charity set up to provide wheelchairs in a rural community in Tanzania. It does this through funding training, education and the local fabrication and servicing of bespoke wheelchairs. My nephew uses a wheelchair and as he grows I can see the life changing freedoms that proper wheelchairs can bring to both users and their families.-
Parkinsons UK - My dad had Parkinsons in his latter years and the research work this charity funds and the support it provides to patients and their families is invaluable. - https://www.justgiving.com/
- RNLI - these are the brave guys who selflessly head out to sea to help others. I volunteer at Littlehampton RNLI shop and often meet families of those who’ve had first hand experience of their loved ones being saved from the sea. Having sailed for years I can say thankfully we’ve never had to call on the RNLI's services but it’s amazing what it does to know they are there
https://www.justgiving.com/
David i made it broken emotional on 18th May if ever see me on a bike again let my tyres down
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