Day 9 - Padstow to Port Isaac

Today was the day that Sally had to return home for work commitments. So, we'd checked out the Padstow bus terminal (bus shelter) and at 1100 she left for Bodmin Parkway and the long train journey home. We'll next meet up in Bristol in a few weeks time.

But before heading off, we treated ourselves to breakfast and no we didn't go to Rick Stein's but when it comes to presentation even cheap and cheerful places in Padstow pull out the stops.

With Sally safely on the bus, I made my way back to the centre of town.

Earlier this morning, I'd spotted that a yacht had arrived in the harbour at first light having sailed from Ardrossan via Northern Ireland and Wales. On the way back through the harbour I went to have a chat with the crew and met the new owner - Martin Smaller against whom I recall having sailed in the Little Britain Trophy a number of years ago. It's a small world and was great to meet up again. 

Before the tide had dropped too far,  I managed to make the last ferry from the town quay 

though we were dropped off on a sandbank

from which I was able to walk across the beach to Rock and visited the RNLI where I met volunteer Cynthia. 

 She described how dangerous it is for visitors to the Camel estuary - the sand banks are tempting to walk across but the tide rises and falls so quickly that many are often caught out.

Safely ashore in Rock, I decided to walk to Polzeath on the footpath that leads across the fairways of St Enodoc's golf course past the 12th century St Enodoc's Church

with its impressive stone spire. The Easter flowers on the chancel steps were amazing - hard to believe that they were real. They were!

At Polzeath you get a clear view of the intimidating entry into the Camel Estuary across Doom Bar on which the waves were breaking as I walked passed.

Walking up from New Polzeath, I caught up with Bill Bartlett and Garry. Bill explained the principles of Deep Time Walks (look it up) on which, using the app, you experience the significant events in 4.6 bn years of Earth history. ...( and probably appreciate the insignificance of our existence). Bill was establishing a new walking route for the area.

Just beyond Pentire Point, I met a lovely couple of walkers, Keith and Anna.

They described themselves as 20 years happily divorced! In the intervening period there had been happy relationships and Anna had been married and widowed but Keith and Anna's friendship continued as did their enjoyment of walking. Two happier people you couldn't meet. It was really nice talking to them. 

A few days ago, I'd noticed how the field walls were built of small stones in a diagonal herringbone pattern. North of Padstow, the walls seem to be built with a more vertical pattern.

It was while I was appreciating a section of wall  (call me a nerd if you like) when I met Andrew and June, farmers who'd recently moved from sheep and cattle farming to grain and grass farming. They were enjoying their first few days off for ages.  Andrew explained how he'd been taught how to build walls by his father.  The wall would have to include larger stones - "shiners" at the base and corners "quoins" otherwise sheep would work at the small stones and eventually destroy the wall. 

They mentioned that over the years they've been keen visitors to Llanberis and Bethel so - perversly - I mentioned how Welsh mountain sheep have a reputation for mastering cattle grids

They explained that their flocks had often been crossed with Suffolk, Scottish Border and Bluefaced Leicester herds to improve their value. I was amused to hear that Welsh mountain sheep hadn't been popular because their inquisitive nature makes them too prone to wander. Let's have a big cheer for Welsh Mountain sheep!!!

Eventually, I descended into Port Isaac - what a picturesque place. 

Total distance so far = 92.2 miles

Total ascent so far = 12 073 feet