Day 12 - Bude to Hartland Quay - 16.9 miles

Navigating one's way out of Bude is not a task that should be taken lightly. I don't think it was in any way alcohol related but we seemed not to be able to find the bridge over the tidal river that Google maps clearly thought existed. We eventually found our way past the changing rooms for the tidal swimming pool...
and the RNLI station 
 before heading North along a relatively easy section of the walk along open fields We saw and heard Wheatear,  Stonechats and Wrens.
After a couple of hours we stopped for coffee at Coombe where me got talking to Frances and Jennie who told us of the
colourful history of a local Reverand Hawker of Morwenstow - a local parish priest in the 1840s... of more later...

We were joined by their friend Leila, just back from her dawn sea swim and got talking about the physical and mental health benefits of wikd swimming. For anyone who's read this blog over the last few days, you'll detect a developing theme here. 

A very visible and surreal presence along this coast is the GCHQ Morwenstow or GCHQ Composite Signals Organisation station ( try saying that after a couple of pinys of St Austell Tribute!!) . A satellite listening station. As you climb one of the headlands they radar domes and satellite dishes suddenly heave into view looming above you.

Back in the real world, the colour of the beautiful gorse seems to become more intense by the day.

I'm not going to try to summarise the life and works of the Rev Hawkor or Pastor Hawker as apparently he was known - look him up, it's worth the read.
This is a very rocky and exposed coastline and of his many qualities, the Reverand was adamant that those who lost their lives at sea should have a proper Christian burial. He retrieved more than 50 souls during his time at Morwenstow. Just below the path surrounded by the heather and gorse he erected a shelter from salvaged timbers of numerous wrecks along the coast. A magical and moving space to stop and think.

Inspired by his story we took a detour to his church and rectory at Morwenstow  
where he had administered to the faithfull and read an account of the wreck of the
Caledonia where, save one, all lives had been lost.


The steep ascents and descents continued relentlessly.  One consisted of a straight flight of 184 steps. I know it sounds nerdy to have counted them but ( we both did) and believe me, when you're this knackered you do anything to just keep going!

We enjoyed a brief respite at Ronald Duncan's hut perched high on the cliffs - commemorating his life and poetry. We stopped for ten minutes and enjoyed fabulous views out to the West.


The highpoint of the day was watching at close quarters an aerial dogfight between - what we think were - a kestrel and a peregrine. This detail might be corrected when we've done our homework.

Eventually, after many more ascents and descents we arrived - tired- at Hartland Quay.

After 3400 feet of ascent,  a goid supper and the sound of the waves on the rocks below the bedroom window, sleep came quickly.
Total distance so far = 142.1 miles
Total ascent so far = 22 934 feet
 
If you're tempted to contribute to the great charities I'm supporting, here are the relevant links.

Parkinsons UK   - My dad had Parkinsons in his latter years and the research work this charity funds and the support it provides to patients and their families is invaluable. - https://www.justgiving.com/fundraising/david-thomas215

- RNLI   - these are the brave guys who selflessly head out to sea to help others. I volunteer at Littlehampton RNLI shop and often meet families of those who’ve had first hand experience of their loved ones being saved from the sea. Having sailed for years I can say thankfully we’ve never had to call on the RNLI's services but it’s amazing what it does to know they are there 

https://www.justgiving.com/fundraising/david-thomas216    

- Just Wheels UK  - this is a small charity set up to provide wheelchairs in a rural community in Tanzania. It does this through funding training, education and the local fabrication and servicing of bespoke wheelchairs. My nephew uses a wheelchair and as he grows I can see the life changing freedoms that proper wheelchairs can bring to both users and their families.- 

 https://donate.thebiggive.org.uk/campaign/a056900002H35TDAAZ

Comments

  1. Neil22 April 2022 at 07:09

    It was a huge privilege to share a couple of truly memorable and wonderful days with you. The walking was hard and extremely tiring, but at the same time, masochistically joyous. I’m knackered after two days and truly in awe of what you are doing.

    Many thanks for your excellent company and the opportunity to play a small part on your epic journey.

    Approveitar!

    ReplyDelete
  2. Mike D22 April 2022 at 12:03

    I don’t know how you find the energy to write blog entries and post photos after such long days — but grateful that you do!

    ReplyDelete
  3. Mike D22 April 2022 at 12:03

    Hoping that all joints are still bending in the right direction!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. David23 April 2022 at 23:37

      Hi Mike. I'm not sure that they're all doing it in unison or with the same enthusiasm!! I've tried a new technique of giving them a strong talking-to this morning. Let's see how long that works.

      Delete

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